Evaluation of the cosmetic potential of the Cyanobacterium Spirulina platensis
Novak, Alessandra Cristine
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Abstract: Toiletry, Perfumery and Cosmetics Sector (TPCS) occupies a prominent place in modern society. The search for beauty and wellness, combined with increased life expectancy of the population, causes the intensive search to products that improve appearance, hygiene and health. Thus, the development of cosmetics is very stimulated. Another important feature is the continuously pressure from consumers and companies to this development of new and innovative products, raising competitiveness. Based on this, large sums are being annually invested in this area. Innovation is the world in cosmetic industry. One of the biggest sources of innovation are the additives, which play a role ranging from improvement sensory properties to protection of the skin against free radicals. With respect to these additives, most are of synthetic origin. Nowadays, their safety and the way they are obtained is being questioned, once negative effects of classical substances used through years are being founded. Thus, attempts to find natural substances capable of replacing these synthetic ingredients are being made, in association with principles of environmental sustainability. Therefore, developing biotechnological products has emerged as an important alternative for achieving efficient and safe additives for cosmetic use. This work fits in this context, aiming to study the potential application of Spirulina platensis biomass and exopolysaccharide (EPS) in cosmetic products. The general objective of this work is: ? Evaluate the effects of the cyanobacteria S. platensis biomass and EPS addition in cosmetics searching a new cosmetic formulation. The specific objectives were determined as: ? Promote microalgae growth and evaluate growth parameters, EPS production and biomass composition; ? Asses the phenolic compounds in S. platensis biomass and EPS and their antioxidant potential; ? Evaluate the rheological characteristics of the addition of biomass and EPS in a moisturizer for the face skin and propose a formulation; ? Assay cream stability through pH, color, odor, general aspect, spreadability, volatile acids and microbiology; ? Evaluate the new formulation for skin irritability in guinea pigs; ? Sensory analysis of the new formulation in panel members.
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